the Dupe dilemma - exploring the ethics and impacts of knockoffs

Everyone loves the thrill of scoring a bargain, especially when it’s a budget-friendly version of something you’ve been coveting. Everyone wants to find that steal, whether it’s a pair of jeans, a workout set, a designer-inspired bag, or the latest sneaker trend. But here’s the thing about steals: someone, somewhere, always pays the price. Behind the dupe is a trail of environmental damages, labour rights violations, unethical business practices and textile waste dumped in a “faraway” landfill.   

So, is dupe culture the “fashion hack” it claims to be, or is it just another way the industry profits from unethical production and drives overconsumption in consumers?    

Social-Media-Fueld-Cycle of Fast Fashion

Dupe culture has always been around; however, social media and Gen-Z have changed the meaning of the term from bad to good. Back in the day, dupes were often purposefully passed off as the original item, with the buyers hoping no one would notice the difference (Hill, A., 2024). But now, finding the perfect look for less is considered a special skill (Criales-Unzueta, J., 2024). Gen-Z has fully embraced the concept—flaunting their #dupe finds on social media, promoting brands that create cheaper alternatives to luxury products and posting the links, of course, because hot girls don’t gatekeep, right?  

The characteristics of fast fashion and its rapid production methods mean that brands such as Zara, H&M, and Shein can keep up with ever-changing and accelerating microtrends seen online and on runways. Unlike traditional fashion brands that release collections seasonally, fast fashion brands operate on an ultra-fast cycle, sometimes producing new styles in a matter of weeks—or even days (Rauturier, S., 2025). With access to real-time data from TikTok, Instagram and Pinterest, it is easy to identify rising microtrends and pump out duplicates while they’re still at their peak. This speed fuels overconsumption and a disposable shopping culture where clothes are meant to be worn for only a short moment rather than a lifetime. By the time a trend is deemed “cheugy” or “cringey,” or “so last season”, these brands have already moved on to the next, leaving behind a pile of cheaply made, soon-to-be discarded garments. 

Independent Brands & Mass Persuasion

Dupe culture also poses a risk to small, independent brands. Fast fashion companies such as Shien, H&M, and Zara have been caught stealing small brands or independent creators' designs, passing them off as their own, and giving no credit to the original creator (Curtis, G., 2023). Stealing their creativity and work takes revenue away from their business and erodes the value of independent fashion work. (Curtis, G., 2023).  

The low prices of these dupes remove the need for careful consideration or heavy persuasion, ultimately driving consumers' impulse buying. When an item is so cheap, there is a smaller psychological barrier to purchase, with less need to save up, weigh the pros and cons, or even truly want the item long-term. Instead, consumers are encouraged to buy now and think later, often justifying their purchases with the logic that “it was only 10 dollars.”  

What do we do?

What dupe culture really does is create more stuff. And the last thing we need is more stuff. The purchasing of dupes gives fast fashion brands business and drives their environmental and social impacts. Fast Fashion brands continue to use unregulated labour means, which risk garment labour workers' social, financial, and physical well-being. Fast fashion brands continue to use high levels of energy, chemicals, and synthetic materials made from plastic fibres, releasing microplastics and toxins during production and post-consumer stages of the product's life. 

So, what do we do as consumers to curb this issue? From consumer to consumer, I understand how difficult it is to resist wanting things. With infinite scrolling and constant exposure to new trends, it’s hard not to feel the pressure to chase the next best thing. But the key isn’t to completely cut yourself off from fashion or even new items—it’s about shifting the way we approach it. Instead of fast fashion, consider investing in quality over quantity, something that may cost more at the moment but will last longer and won't go out of style. If you REALLY want that dupe, try looking at Facebook Marketplace, Poshmark, Depop, or your friends’ closets first!  Support small, ethical brands prioritizing sustainability, shopping secondhand, and even embracing outfit repeating. 

References

Criales-Unzueta, J., (2024, 12 December). How quiet luxury changed dupe culture. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/consumers/how-quiet-luxury-changed-dupe-culture 

Curtis, G., (2023, 19 February). Fast fashion is robbing creative expression. Valley. http://www.valleymagazinepsu.com/fast-fashion-is-robbing-creative-expression/ 

Hill, A., (2024, 20 May). Counterfeit goes cool: high-end brands urged to embrace rise of #dupe. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/media/article/2024/may/20/counterfeit-coolhigh-end-brands-urged-embrace-dupe  

Rauturier, S., (2025, 26 February). What is fast fashion and why is it so bad? Good on You. https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-fast-fashion/